Updates to the website have been horrible and I apologize in advance. Its not like I’m in a hurry to drive my car or anything right? Err…..

On to the update! One of the most important things I still needed at the time was the weld wire and the modified spacer. Takash was pretty busy with the beginning of the racing season so it took a while to get the spacer back. No big deal though as I had plenty of welding to take care of. I bought more wire a few weeks back and finished up the welding. The muffler hangers were somewhat problematic because for some reason the welds weren’t holding like they did on the piping. I was grinding them down the same and even experimented with changing the heat settings to try and get it right. Eventually it worked, but to be sure I fastened a self-tapping screw through the hanger and into the muffler. As it turns out that worked great for mocking up the position of the muffler under the car. Below are some pics of all the final horrible welds I produced:

After I finished my horrible welding job I picked up the spacer which I had milled down by 3/8″. I bolted it to the upper intake and then set the assembly on the lower intake. Just to be sure I closed the hood a few times, and sure enough it fits perfectly (so far)! Now something I didn’t even think of was how this would effect the fasteners on the lower intake. Well as my luck would have it (and if you haven’t figured out how bad my luck is by now try re-reading the last 20 posts) I can’t fit a tool on all the nuts because of the now added height of the studs. The fuel injector rails cause a clearance problem from the side and the upper plenum causes a clearance above the stud/nut. I’m not sure how I can get around this. My other option (and yes I’ve been down this road before) is to buy a hood with greater clearance but that is an expensive path to travel. This is going to take more thought, and just like the other 10 things I’ve put off, I decided I will deal with this one later. To be continued…

Even though I couldn’t tighten all the nuts, I wasn’t going to let that keep me from routing the intake piping from the intercooler. Before I had the spacer milled I knew I would have problems with alignment of all the piping pieces. One of the hoses I purchased last month was a hump hose
which aides in connecting pipe ends that don’t quite line up exactly. After some grinding was done on the sheet metal where the original air filter mounts were located I placed the piping and used the new clamps and checked for clearance. Everything looks good except for two small areas which may or may not be a problem. The first is the clearance between the EGT sensor and the piping (see below):

You can see how the wiring just barely touches the bottom of the pipe. This is one place I will have to watch over time. The other place is between the Tial 50mm BOV and the hood. For this I may be OK with rotating it on its mount such that the valley of the BOV head is parrallel to the inner surface of the hood. I can close the hood but I’m afraid when the engine moves while running it may wear slightly. For now here is what the intake and intake piping look like (note the addition of the downpipes from the last update and the oil lines, which I mention below):

After I was done with the piping and welding I decided to finish up the oil system. As you may recall I purchased a few components a while back to build my own oil cooling kit. I already have the thermostat sandwich adapter mounted on the block, I just needed to run the lines and mount the cooler. Along with the cooler came 4 plastic zip-ties made for mounting the cooler to a radiator. In my case because I have no room between radiator and intercooler I decided to just mount it to the intercooler. This is NOT my preferred location but I really have no other place to mount it. I even considered mounting it in a sideways position out of the airflow, hiding under the fender, but even there it just doesn’t fit. After getting it all lined up properly I then ran the oil lines from the sandwich adapter to the cooler. I then ran the feed lines for the turbo’s off of the oil pressure sender adapter sent to me by Cartech. The pictures below show the oil system finally put together:


I decided since I had everything put together that I would prime the oil system and check for leaks. The only other thing to mount was the oil filter. And as luck would have it (again) I ran into a snag. Because the sandwich adapter is in the stock oil filter location it pushes the oil filter out another 2 inches. This causes a clearance issue between the filter and the sway bar (See below):

I have a few options to fix this one but it seems the cheapest and fastest way is to just get a shorter filter. I will have to check and see if the newer mustangs use the same thread size, because I know they do use a shorter filter.